against my better judgment
This time I write from sunny Belgrade – a city in all its Spring splendor, on the morning of May 1, the Ultimate socialist holiday when one celebrates all the diligent workers in the country. Belgrade is also where the Sava meets the great Danube River creating what is popularly known as the Usce (or Mouth); the sight where i spent the afternoon the day before.
From the Balkan perspective, one is taught that Belgrade is an important intellectual and political centre in the region – which in the past decades has created intense sentiment of intimidation, pride, hate and love for the city. As the biggest city in the region, it was the joint capital for now 7 independent countries, and an impressive establishment of the most radical and liberal movements to take place in this region.
To me it always seems like the city breeds on a feeling of lost glory and significance from the past, though the intellectual asset of the people still remains impressive.
I spent the whole day yesterday walking around Belgrade in admiration, and disappointment. It made me think a lot about what Belgrade has turned into in these past three decades. It even brought me to a time which I do not remember as well – when Belgrade was also my capital city. Unfortunately today’s reality in Belgrade is such that one cannot escape the almost daily protests on the Square of the Republic (Trg Republike) - with banners chanting praises for any one of the war crimes perpetrators in the wars of the Former Yugoslavia, or Serbian religious leaders staging anti-NATO and anti-EU gatherings bearing the portraits of Slobodan Milosevic, and the famous duo Mladic/Karadzic. In Serbia religion seems to contaminate the taste that Belgrade living offers to the world.
A few weeks ago, on Easter, I decided to do what is now very fashionable in Macedonia – to go to Church for Easter. An occasion which creates a discomfort with some people of my parents age who in the past times were more keen on an event marking the rational Communist achievements in society than the religious manipulation of the church.
I am not religious, but on such an occasion when so many people get crazy over painting eggs and chocolate bunnies – it woke my appetite to be part of the euphoria.
At the main Orthodox Hram Church in the Centre of Skopje, I stood to look for God. I waited to see my spirituality light up to me in any form, to communicate my verbal wish list on the occasion of Easter. For some reason that afternoon, I had the feeling God was present in the corner of the church, rather than in the richly ornamented altar where my eyes were squinting from the light’s reflection off the golden frescos. So I walked to the dark corner in the inner part of the East Wing of the church.
There I stood looking up and contemplating where to start. And then I heard an older lady sobbing on the opposite corner. I could not see what she looked like – to be able to immediately label her as mad, or sad, or simply in the Holiday blues.
My curiosity made me get closer to the wooden row of seats where she sat with her head hanging over a small piece of cloth she had entangled around her fingers. ‘She has made contact’ I thought. After a few moments my slow steps brought me closer to her spot where I stood next to her. I felt like I would share her sadness.
From that distance it seemed so universal, and so easy to identify myself with her sorrow. She suddenly started to speak out loud, which gave me good reason to turn my head towards her and stare – opening up a window of judgment.
‘Do you think I deserved it in this way?’ she said. At that point it felt like she was talking to me. It felt ominous to be mistaken for God. I realized she was looking up. Why was God ‘up’? Are we not ourselves the embodiment of God? Or do our unquestioned archetypes simply dictate such nonsense?
She had decided to go head on with Thy God in Heaven, and verbally communicate her earthly sorrow for the whole church congregation to hear.
She was disillusioned, and in utterly despair. She was broken by what her life had done to her. But in all that brokenness she did not lack hope - the hope that her God would listen and make it easier on her.
It seemed she had made a big mistake in her life, which was inexcusable even for God’s taste. She communicated her feelings completely but not the reasons for the feelings. And yet she seemed truly repentant. She was there, penitent, emotionally naked for the Heavens, under the many icons which looked down on her.
This event came to my mind here in Belgrade and since then has made me think: Does religion turn us blind towards the reality we have produced? Does it make it easier on us to deal with our emotional past entourage?
While i stood on at the Mouth of Belgrade watching the waters of both Rivers flow into one - I thought about my own mistakes and wrong doings. How unforgivable do I think they are?
The intellectual capabilities dictate the ways how we deal with such emotional difficulties in our own way. Some people cry hysterically, some repent and ask forgiveness to the Lord (inside or outside of a church), some think them through and internalize their emotions, some decide to always be right and simply blame it on someone else. In any case it is because the truth hurts too much that we are not able to always let it in. And yet when the truth hits us on the face – the truth then also sets us and our emotions free.
The truth is a realization, almost a revelation which we decide to acknowledge and recognize. We are all looking for something we want which we are convinced we do not have (any longer). Because the truth is usually a conception of our own imagination – it speaks to us on an emotional level. And the realization that we are incomplete – or that our own fabricated truths are violated - is what drives us to dire desperation to salvage what emotional collateral we can.
My short holiday in Belgrade was a last minute decision and was made against my better judgment. Do we ever decide that we will stop looking for that which we are convinced we do not have? Eventually, when I look back, what I remember best in my life are the things I did against my better judgment. Like the old lady in the church, I had to find my own emotional outlet, and go against my better judgment - because deep down no matter now broken we might seem - hope is never permanently broken. The emotional memorabilia is what makes Holiday blues easier to manage – because there is hope that more such memorabilia are there waiting for us behind the corner of the street, or even perhaps in the clubs of Belgrade.
At the Church in Skopje it seemed like time had stood still. It was not clear how long one must mourn, and be in sadness, it does not say at the Church entrance where one can read the Church Code of Conduct. How long must we pray for that prayer to count? Regardless, in hard times sadness and the hope do not recognize any category of time.
When she deemed it right, the lady simply stood up, dusted off her long purple raffled dress and took a deep breath. She then walked up to one of the bigger icon paintings on that Wing of the Church – bowed down and kissed the painting at the feet of the baby Jesus. “Jesus has Risen” (or Isus Voskrese), she said, to mark her belief in the Easter Holiday, and that in all hope miracles like that of the Resurrection do happen to the good, and to those who repent strongly enough.
Finally, the feelings we develop and those that we lose, the moments we believe we have lost, and those we decide to let go of, those which we are constantly looking for, convinced we do not have – none such situations change the world around us. They change us, and who we are in the world, and how we decide to place ourselves in that world. Because each experience is a lesson – so is our willingness to be open to those new situations – even if this means once in a while going against our better judgment.



















